Landscaping Care Guides 🌿 B.B. Barns Garden Center + Landscaping

B.B. Barns Landscaping Care Guides

Congratulations on your new landscape — we hope you are excited about it! So, now what?

Knowing the proper way to take care of your newly planted perennials, shrubs and trees will go a long way in your landscape’s success. Please read through our quick guides to know what’s expected.

Our best advice is to be patient, but ask questions. If you’re worried, please don’t hesitate to contact us. We are here to help sort out the problem and replace where necessary. Trust the growth process in the garden, and remember not to judge it in year one or two. Year three is when the garden really springs to life. Enjoy!

Please Note: As you read the following guidelines, there will be a temptation to follow them to the letter. You must learn to ”see” what you are looking at in the landscape, combine that field information with this guide, and then do what is best for each plant. Please do not hesitate to reach out to us with any questions and/or concerns you may have.

Frequently Asked Questions About Your Newly Installed Plants

I’m seeing yellowing and wilting plants, or leaves turning brown and curling under. What’s up?

Plants arrive at your location in containers (or ball and burlap) and are then planted in the wide‑open space of your yard. You’d think it would make the plants happy because now their roots can spread out and grow. However, that’s a slow process.

In the short term, they may be experiencing transplant shock — stresses seen in newly planted trees, shrubs, and perennials. Transplant shock may show up looking like scorched, yellowing, curling leaves, browning, and lack of growth. As plantings establish, this will correct.

How long does it take roots to establish?

Roots are considered established when the root system reaches at least as wide as the above‑ground canopy of green.

For shrubs, this takes about 18 months.
For trees, it depends on the size of the caliper (diameter of the trunk).
- If the caliper is 1-2” inches, expect 1.5 to 2 years.
- If the caliper is 6” in diameter, expect 9 years for roots to be established.

Consistent watering is the most significant factor in the plant’s success once transplanted.

If you have stopped watering, start again but don’t overcorrect. Don’t go from not watering to drowning the plant; consistency is the key.
You may have to adjust your watering to add a day when the weather is hot and dry and reduce watering when cooler nights and rain comes.

JUMP TO WATERING GUIDES

Why did some plants grow and others died?

There are many reasons why plants — planted right next to each other and watered the same — will respond differently to transplanting. There could be unseen drainage issues (or moles and voles), or too much sun or shade just a few feet over.

For plants that aren’t growing as fast, they may require more time to get their growing on. For plants that have died, this should be investigated to determine the culprit. Please see our installation and plant warranties.

Does fertilizer help new plants recover from transplant shock?

No, the process for establishing roots doesn’t speed up with extra fertilizer, and too much fertilizer can burn the roots.

JUMP TO FERTILIZING GUIDE

Your Guide to Watering Trees, Shrubs & Perennials

Newly installed plants have a greater water demand than established plantings and this will vary by the type of plant and size.

Tree, shrub, and perennial watering is best done by hand using a garden hose. As a general guide, allow one gallon of water per one foot of plant height. Most garden hoses will deliver one gallon of water in 15–30 seconds. Always check the root balls to verify actual needs.

Nothing will substitute for judgment based upon your assessment of how dry or wet the root zone is.

Watering guidelines for new plantings for the first 2 years in the spring through fall:

First and second week: every 1–2 days until the root system is soaked
Third and fourth week: every 2–3 days until the root system is soaked
After the first month: every 3–4 days until the root system is soaked

Watering guidelines for new plantings for the first 2 years in the late fall through winter:

First and second week: every 2–3 days until the root system is soaked
After two weeks: every 3–5 days until the root system is soaked
After the first month: every 7 days until the root system is soaked
As spring approaches, use the watering recommendations mentioned above
Ensure root balls are soaked ahead of freezing temperatures to help protect the plant

Your Guide to Watering Lawn Sod & Seed

The primary goal of watering new sod and seed is to maintain moist, but not soggy soil. The best way to achieve this is with an irrigation system or temporary sprinklers set on a timer capable of watering multiple times per day.

Established lawns prefer deep, infrequent watering, and new areas need frequent, shallow watering to maintain moisture levels.

Watering guidelines for new sod:

Soak the sod and first 2” of soil on the first day upon installation
First two weeks: 3–4 times per day for 5–8 minutes depending on soil type
Weeks three and four: 2–3 times per day for 5–8 minutes depending on soil type
After four weeks: fertilize new sod and slowly adjust watering to match your normal lawn watering schedule (1” of water per week)

Watering guidelines for new seed:

First two weeks: 3–4 times per day for 5–8 minutes depending on soil type
Weeks three and four: 2–3 times per day for 5–8 minutes depending on soil type
After four weeks: slowly adjust watering to match your normal lawn watering schedule (1” of water per week)

Your Guide to Fertilizing

Why fertilize? Just like people need a balance of protein, carbohydrates, and vitamins, plants need “food” in the form of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and other minor nutrients. Fertilizing helps the plants perform their best.

Reasons you may need to fertilize include:

Encourage shoot growth, root growth, flowering, or fruiting.
Establish newly planted trees and shrubs.
Enhance foliage color and plant appearance.
Correct or prevent nutrient deficiencies.

Three prime chemicals elements are found in all mixed fertilizers:

N = NITROGEN promotes healthy leaf growth by stimulating the production of chlorophyll
(the main chemical involved in photosynthesis—how plants convert sunlight to food).
P = PHOSPHORUS supports the vigorous development of roots, stems, blossoms, and fruits.
K = POTASSIUM plays a key role in helping plants digest and manufacture their foods

Fertilizer “grade or analysis” is the percent nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium guaranteed by the manufacturer to be in the
fertilizer. It is denoted with dashes in the order N–P–K e.g. 10‑10‑10.

Different Plants have different fertilization needs, general applications include:

Early spring in March or April: Apply an organic‑based or a slow‑release fertilizer to the soil surface area for shrubs at a rate of 1 lb. of nitrogen per 1000 square feet area—the application rate is typically prescribed on the bag.

Mid fall in November: A second application of the same spring fertilizer at the same rate would be appropriate for new landscapes until they
reach the size you want to retain.

More fertilizer DOES NOT equal a healthier plant, and it does not solve every problem (pests). It is possible to overfeed your plants. Too much fertilizer damages or kills plants. Try testing your soil if your plants are struggling and regular fertilization isn’t helping.

You can learn more from your N.C. Cooperative Extension.

Your Guide to Pruning

Except in an emergency (breakage, etc.) do not prune anything for the first season. This is because hormones manufactured in the leaf buds stimulate the roots to grow. If the buds are removed root growth is affected.

After the first season:

In general, tree pruning should be done during January and February or in mid-summer, depending on the individual plant variety (e.g. prune Maple, Birch, Sweetgum, and evergreens in the summertime).
Trees and shrubs that flower early in spring on last year’s growth (e.g. azaleas, rhododendrons) should be pruned immediately after flowering.
Trees and shrubs that flower from early summer to fall on the current year’s growth (e.g. crape myrtle, some hydrangeas) should be pruned during dormancy (February-March).
Conifer pruning (do not attempt to significantly prune Pine or Hollywood Juniper) should be pruned before new wood has hardened.

Your Guide to Weed Control

Mulching For Weed Control

Most new planting beds are susceptible to weed infestation. It is important to keep the mulch thick enough (3 inches) so that light does not strike the soil surface and stimulate weed seed germination and encourage moisture retention. Either pine straw or bark makes excellent mulch for plants. Do not over-mulch or cover the plant’s root flare with mulch.

Herbicide for Weed Control

If you choose to use an herbicide to control weeds, apply an appropriate pre-emergent weed control herbicide (e.g. Preen, Triflan, Balan, Surflan, Ronstar, etc.) in late March and July.

Remember, the application of a pre-emergent will kill any seeds you may have planted yourself. Spray a postemergence weed control to control weeds during the growing season.

Your Guide to Pest Control for Perennials

Insects and diseases are not usually major problems with perennials. Keeping foliage dry particularly going into the night reduces the probability of disease.

The most common insects are aphids, whiteflies, spider mites, and slugs/snails. Insecticidal soap, snail baits, and Mavrik are good insecticides for use on perennials.