No landscape is exempt from this July realization: We over-planted, put full sun plants in shade and shade plants in sun, and oh yeah, had to cut down a bunch of trees so now the azaleas are withering. Not to mention it’s July. The garden is hot, full of weeds, and in a full-on battle for space. Don’t give up, the payoff is coming.

Time for the sunflowers. Easy to plant from seed, but just as easy to buy at your local farmer’s market if you didn’t think to plant them. Make a note for next year.

 

Time for the sunflowers. Easy to plant from seed, but just as easy to buy at your local farmer’s market if you didn’t think to plant them. Make a note for next year.

July task #1: Review the Garden

The plants have hit their summer climax, so now is the time to determine where the holes are, what needs transplanting, consolidating, pruned, or completely removed, because well, it’s a jungle out there. Editing and planning are best done now when it’s all visible and fighting for space or large holes loom. Decide now, but remember some of those tasks are best performed in fall. Transplanting is a fall or early spring job. Removal and pruning is fine now but do look around and see what will be disturbed and is it best to wait until late fall to cut down the tree that is currently shading your woodland garden? If it’s a danger, go ahead, if it’s an annoyance, maybe wait, and use this time to consider what happens with the woodland garden.

Rule of thumb for perennials; if it is a spring blooming perennial, divide and transplant in fall, if it is a fall blooming perennial, divide and transplant in spring. (You may need to flag plants to remember their location as perennials begin to die back.) For how to divide perennials, read here.

Read here for pruning instructions and remember you can prune now if crowding and competing plants are out of hand, but only a 1/3 of the plant may be removed at a time. Don’t forget to complete pruning of spring flowering shrubs by July 10 to give enough time for the plants to grow new wood and set buds for next year. It really should be done immediately after blooming because this late in the season will give less blooms for next year, but if necessary to manage for size then go ahead.

And FYI: For size I mean it is hanging out in the driveway, laying on the walking path, or suffocating the roses?

Removing old shrubs and junipers (and cleaning up a bank covered in euonmyus and poison ivy) is a job for a B.B. Barn's Landscape crew and their equipment. This is not a DIY job. NIether is cutting down trees. For referrals, call myself or the landscape divsion. (Myself: 828-275-0516, Landscape: 828-650-7300, press 2.)

Removing old shrubs and junipers (and cleaning up a bank covered in euonmyus and poison ivy) is a job for a B.B. Barn’s Landscape crew and their equipment. This is not a DIY job. NIether is cutting down trees. For referrals, call myself or the landscape divsion. (Myself: 828-275-0516, Landscape: 828-650-7300, press 2.)

July Task #2: Weeding and Watering

Does your vegetable garden look like this by the end of the season. Key to any garden is staying on top of the weeds, and making sure none go to seed. It's a battle you can win, but it takes preserverance.

 

Does your vegetable garden look like this by the end of the season. Key to any garden is staying on top of the weeds, and making sure none go to seed. It’s a battle you can win, but it takes preserverance.

While you’re reviewing and note taking, double check your beds weekly. Where is that problem spot the weeds have overtaken? I’ve got a doozy. A corner where bittersweet and poison ivy reign, along with weeds I’ve yet to identify. I’m slowly regaining control.

Make a plan for getting those places cleaned up. Don’t wait until fall when you’ll be doing the fall clean-up chores. Clear the larger plants by digging them out, then cover the area with plastic sheets to fry the smaller weeds, making cleanup easier and environmentally friendly. When weeds are brown, remove plastic and dead weeds, then lay down newspapers or corrugated cardboard, moisten it with water, weigh it down with rocks and cover with mulch to help keep future weeds away. (Don’t till up the soil to avoid new weed seeds sprouting.) And, keep on mulching. Weeds compete for nutrients, sunlight and moisture, so yeah, they gotta go. A good book for weed identification? Weeds of North America. A good internet site for weed id? Rutgers Weed Gallery, where you can identify weeds by picture. Know your enemy.

And though we’ve had rain this season, your new plantings still need watering. Remember to water at soil level, 2x a week, depending on rainfall (an inch of rainfall a week is necessary or you need to water). With this heat, plants dry out quicker than we realize (yes even with the rain we’ve had), and new plantings haven’t developed deep root systems yet to compete for water on drier days.

July Task #3: Start your fall vegetable garden

helenium-2

 

Helenium ‘Mardi Gras’ blooms mid-summer straight on to late fall. It is unstoppable, isn’t bad to flop, gets 36″-48″, is deer resistant, a butterfly magnet, and makes a great cut flower.

Summer solstice is our cue to start planning the fall vegetable garden. Your spring vegetable garden can basically be replanted in fall, anything that likes the cooler weather–broccoli, Brussel sprouts, lettuces, cabbage, cauliflower, and so forth. October 25th is our average first frost date, but some vegetables keep on growing with a light frost and even snow. July and August are the months to get those succession seeds in the ground. Or if you prefer transplants, look for those to arrive in the store soon.

July Task #4: Fertilize Now for Winter

This is the month to fertilize a second and last time for the landscape plants, then put your fertilizer in a dry place for the winter. You won’t need it again until spring. Key word here is landscape plants. Please continue to water your annuals, blooming perennials, and still blooming plants (hydrangeas) with Bloom Booster once every 7-10 days. This fertilizing is for your landscape plants. The first fertilization was in March (hopefully, but if it wasn’t just do it now and mark March for next year) and this will be the last time for the growing season. Be sure to water the fertilizer in. If we fertilize much later into fall, and new growth occurs that doesn’t have time to harden off before the cold arrives. Do not fertilize after August 1.

July Task #5: Scout for the pests

closeup-on-ripe-and-green-tomatoes-growing-on-vine-in-greenhouse-toned

 

The payoffs are coming!

It’s Japanese beetle time. Best solution? Hand pick each morning and night, drowning them in a bucket of water. Get squeamish over drowning the hateful things? Try the beetle trap. Yes, it attracts the beetles, but they end up in the trap and not on your plants. It also gives you an idea of how bad the population is.

A full bag? Go for a long term treatment plan. A few in the bottom of the bag? Don’t fret about it. For long term treatment, try milky spore that gets rid of the grubs. Discuss this program with Marshall Van Hoy, our garden products expert. Remember, we can’t eliminate every pest in the garden, but we can manage them. For more information on how to manage them, read here about Intergrated Pest Management. It’s actually an important subject, and very helpful to our garden and it’s ecology, so, go ahead and click on the link, boring as it sounds.

And for a good, user friendly book on diagnosing what is wrong with a plant, check out this book. What’s Wrong With My Plant (Aand How Do I Fix It?)

July Task #6: A few Miscellaneous Items and can i continue to plant?

Raise the mower deck, as crabgrass will emerge where the grass is too low. Continue to deadhead your perennials, and begin cutting back plant material that is yellowing.

The store is one big cutting garden right now with all the summer perennials in bloom, so it’s the perfect time to fill holes in the borders with some summer show-stoppers. Check out our slideshow of perennials here. Don’t forget fall blooms. Anemones, joe pye weed, asters, toad lilies, helenium, American beautyberry, caropyteris, all worth the sweat to plant for fall enjoyment.

Isn’t fall the best time to plant? The answer is yes. Soil temperatures stay warmer than air temperatures as fall progresses which allows for root develoment over shoot develoment, and cooler temperatures are less stressful for plants. But, there are two words that apply here, availability and time. Not all plants are available in fall. Flowering shrubs and perennials aren’t as readily available (or not at all) in fall so if you want to purchase new hydrangeas, now is the time. And, waiting until September to plant them isn’t a good idea. Timing plays a part in your planting—and so does your schedule. If now is when you can plant then now is when you plant. The goal is then to be vigligent about watering, and check your plants everyday.

Anemone ‘Honorine Jobert’ the perfect fall flower.

 

Anemone ‘Honorine Jobert’ the perfect fall flower.

Yep, we’ve hit the doldrums of summer, but the payoffs are coming. Think juicy, red tomatoes, sweet bell peppers, and fresh cucumbers come August, and lovely anemones with Joe Pye weed come September. The payoff awaits, people. Don’t quit now.

Cinthia Milner is the garden coach and blog writer for B.B. Barns Garden Center.

B.B. Barns Garden Center serves all of Western North Carolina, upstate South Carolina and Tennessee.