March heralds the arrival of spring, and we’re all ready for it, aren’t we? Spring is the morale booster we all need after storms and freezing temperatures… There’s a lot to keep us busy as we dive into our spring garden cleanup, so pace yourself and enjoy the time outside. But remember, it’s not about perfection; it’s a garden, a place to reset while spring resets the world around us.
So, where to begin? Anywhere really, but remember the phrase, “When the soil can be worked,” and be cautious about mucking around on frozen soil. March may be a busy month in the garden, but it is weather-dependent. Do what the weather allows.
1. Pruning: The First Activity for Garden Goals This Month
Prune now before dormant trees and shrubs start leafing out. Prune out diseased, damaged, dead, dying, and deformed wood—that will begin the process. Do not prune your spring-flowering shrubs: weigela, azaleas, rhododendrons, etc. Also, skip the mophead and lacecap hydrangeas. Both spring-flowering shrubs and some types of hydrangeas bloom on old wood. If you prune them now, you prune off this season’s blooms. If you’re unsure what plants bloom on old wood, here’s a handy list from Proven Winners. Bookmark it. Also, here’s a great B.B. Barns resource for how to prune and why. And use this pruning calendar from the N.C. Cooperative Extension to answer any timing questions.
A word about pruning clematis… To prune or not is a question our horticultural experts get a lot from B.B. Barns customers, and it can be very confusing. Like hydrangeas, it’s hard to know when to prune what clematis type. Clematis are generally in groupings labeled 1,2,3, or A, B, C and pruned according to type.
Group One: They bloom early spring on old wood (last season’s wood). These are the armandii, montana, and alpina varieties. If your clematis blooms in early spring, prune right after bloom. Typically, they require damaged stem removal or thinning every few years, and that’s it.
Group Two: They generally bloom in late spring, including ‘Nelly Moser,’ ‘Henyrii’ and other large-flowered clematis varieties. They bloom on old and new wood. Prune late winter or early spring when buds begin to swell. Cut just above the buds.
Group Three: These bloom late summer and only on new wood. ‘Duchess of Albany’ is an example, and these can be cut to the ground in spring, where they’ll sprout back from the crown.
‘Princess Diana’ Group 2 blooms on old and new wood. It does not require much pruning, but prune immediately after blooming if necessary.
‘Ninon’ Clematis Group 3 blooms on new wood. Prune in February or March when new growth emerges at the plant base.
2. Mulching: It’s Time to Mulch, But Skip the Candle-in-a-Cupcake Look
Questions about mulch? There’s great info here—Mulching The Garden—but please skip the whole candle-in-a-cupcake look for your trees and shrubs! You should always see the root flare of a tree. One to two inches of mulch is good, starting at the tree’s drip line and moving toward the trunk, but not touching the trunk. (Think doughnut, not cupcake!)
Spread your mulch and get a jump on the weeds. Two to four inches of mulch is acceptable in your garden beds, but again, avoid applying mulch around the crown of your trees. That creates a perfect hangout for voles and moles, diseases and pests, and a greater root-girdling possibility. For an explanation of root girdling, read here.
And this year, why not think about green mulch or groundcovers? By early April, we’ll have most of our perennials and groundcovers for you here at B.B. Barns; come see us!
3. Fertilizing: It’s Time to Eat!
Feed all your shrubs and trees, using Espoma Holly-tone for acid-loving plants, Espoma Bio-tone for the rest, and a rose-specific fertilizer such as Espoma Rose-tone for your roses. Follow the instructions on the bag for the best results. Remember, though, while fertilizer is good, it doesn’t solve every problem. If your plants perform poorly, your soil may have issues with aeration, moisture, disease, voles, ph level, etc. Examine those “something’s not right” plants and determine what’s wrong. Fertilization is only helpful after you’re corrected the problem. Our horticultural experts will gladly help you figure it out, and don’t forget your local Extension Service
Fertilize roses now. Isn’t ‘Lady Emma Hamilton,’ a David Austin English Rose, beautiful? Look for our roses to start arriving in April.
4. Planting: Now Is an Excellent Time
For your vegetable gardens, it’s time plant beets, carrots, Chinese cabbage, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, Swiss chard, turnips, potatoes, cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower. If you don’t have the space for a vegetable garden, try growing vegetables in containers and keeping them close to your house for easy picking. Delicious convenience! Fruit trees, grapevines, and fruiting bushes are also planted now, as well as shrubs, conifers, and spring-blooming perennials (candytuft, phlox, and hellebores).
Enjoy these linked resources for planting:
5. Planning: Always Be Assessing and Evaluating the Overall Garden
Time and surroundings change the garden greatly, affecting the plants you have growing there. Sick of the onesies dominating the landscape? Has something grown out of its space? Does a once-sunny spot now need more shade-lovers? Need more organization and flow in the yard? Maybe this season is the time for a redo. If you’re looking for some landscaping help, B.B. Barns landscapers are standing by.
A beautiful winter/spring-blooming hellebore
Side note for your planning purposes: Nurseries stock what’s currently blooming or soon to be blooming, like this hellebore. That means you need to be aware that current bloomers may not be available in, say, late summer. Our newsletter is an excellent way to keep up with what’s in stock and on sale. Sign up for it here!
6. Tending the Lawn
If you didn’t lime the lawn last year, do so this season. And, while crabgrass may be the last thing on your mind, it’s time to take care of it. Apply your pre-emergents now. Or, if your lawn needs reseeding, do that now. If only a few areas need reseeding, concentrate on that, skip the weed and feed, but go ahead with the lime, with a gap of two weeks between lime and seed. Confused? Have loads of lawn questions? Remember our experts would love to help!
7. Weeding and Transplanting
Clean out spring-blooming perennial beds first, cutting back the old leaves on hellebores. (Yes, you do want to cut back those old leaves. You won’t hurt the blooms by doing so.) Then move on to your summer-blooming beds. Start weeding now, and transplant any trees and shrubs that need it.
But hey, not all weeds are all bad… Here are five weeds to keep and why.
Guideline for transplanting… It may sound confusing, but here’s the trick: Transplant late-summer and fall-blooming-perennials in spring. Transplant spring- and early-summer-blooming perennials in fall. But here’s another piece of garden wisdom: Do it when you have the time. So if you missed the fall division, go ahead and divide now. It won’t hurt the plant; you may have fewer blooms, but the plant needs the division to thrive. Here’s more info on how to divide and transplant perennials.
8. Keeping an Eye Out for Pests: Seriously, Get a Head Start
They’re out there, and it’s better to get ahead of them then not…
- Start scouting for euonymus scale and juniper-spruce spider mites.
- Begin treating hybrid rhododendron for borer insects.
- Check out hemlock shrubs for woolly adelgid insects early in March and discuss treatment options with our B.B. Barns gurus.
- Know what scale looks like so you recognize it if these sap-suckers visit your plants.
And for fun, sign up for the Big Bug Hunt. You’ll get alerted about pests headed your way, and you can participate in their citizens’ science project. Get the kiddos involved in this one.
Okay, that should keep you busy until April. Please reach out with all your questions!
